Gearbox	reassembly
	Before reassembly commences ensure that the gearbox casing is thoroughly clean with all traces of old gaskets removed, Also ensure that all the components are clean and dry and that a complete set of new gaskets is available.
	Press the reverse lever operating pin into its bore in the bottom of the casing with the groove in the pin uppermost.
	Press the reverse operating lever into place on the operating pin and fit operating lever retaining circlip.
	Refit the reverse fork into the hole in the operating lever, ensuring that the offset in the fork is towards the rear of the gearbox casing.
	Place the reverse gear into the gearbox casing with the machined groove of the gear engaged with the selector fork. Note: The gear must be positioned with the groove towards the right-hand side of the casing (photo)
	Lubricate the reverse gear shaft and pass it through the centre web of the casing, into reverse gear, and with the slotted end of the shaft facing upwards (photo).
	Fit the reverse gear detent spring into the drilling in the rear of the casing and then slide in the reverse detent plunger, flat side first (photos).
	Slide the reverse selector rod through the centre web of the casing and into the reverse selector fork (photo). Using a long screwdriver, push the detent plunger in against spring pressure while at the same time pushing the reverse selector rod through into the end of the casing.
	Place the third and fourth gear selector fork in the casing and push the third and fourth gear selector rod in from the left of the casing so the rod enters the lower hole in the fork (photo).
	Place the first and second gear selector fork in the casing and push the first and second gear selector rod in from the left of the casing so the rod enters the locating hole in the first and second gear selector fork, and also passes through the clearance hole in the third and fourth gear selector fork.
	Line up the indentations in the rods with the holes in the forks and insert and tighten down the selector screws, lockwashers and locknuts. Make certain the locknuts are properly tightened down, and on no account omit the lockwashers. As the selectors iie in the bottom Of the transmission casing, if one works loose the whole gearbox must be stripped to tighten it.
	Place the oil strainer sealing ring in the recess in the oil strainer (photo) and lightly grease the ring to help the oil pipe pass through easily when it is fitted later. Attach the oil strainer bracket to the oil strainer, fit the lockwasher and insert and tighten the two bolts securely. Turn up the tabs on the lockwasher. Place the strainer in position in the bottom of the casing (photo). Do not yet insert the bolts which hold the bracket to the lugs on the casing.
	Refit the mainshaft assembly with the forked end of the shaft toward the left of the gearbox casing and with the synchroniser hubs in place over the selector forks.
	Ensure that the large circlip is in position in the retaining groove of the mainshaft bearing and refit the bearing, tapping it into the centre web of the casing with a tube of suitable diameter (photo).
	Place the small caged needle roller bearing over the front of the mainshaft and then refit the first motion shaft and bearing assembly to the gearbox casing. Secure the bearing in position with the large circlip (photos).
	Refit the first/second and third/fourth selector rod detent plungers to their drillings in the rear face of the gearbox casing. Now refit the springs, plugs and sealing washers (photos).
	Place the standard size laygear thrustwasher into its location in the gearbox casing and retain it with a dab of grease on its rear face. Note: On three-speed synchromesh gearboxes the small thrustwasher is of standard side and the large one selective. On four-speed synchromesh gearboxes the large thrustwasher is standard and the smaller one selective.
	Carefully lower the laygear into the gearbox (photo) hold it against the thrustwasher and using feeler gauges measure the clearance at the other end (photo).
	With the standard washer fitted and the gap between the end of the laygear and the casing measured, the selective washer can be decided upon. The table below gives the part numbers for the appropriate selective washers, based on the measured gap with the standard washer fitted. Column A is for gearboxes with synchromesh on three-speeds and Column 6 for synchromesh on four-speeds.
Gap	A	B
0.125 to 0.127 in (3.18 to 3.22 mm)	88G 325	22G 856
0.128 to 0.130 in (3.25 to 3.30 mm)	88G 326	22G 857
0.131 to 0.133 in (3.32 to 3.37 mm)	88G 327	22G 858
0.134 in (3.41 mm)	88G 328	22G 859
	The correct endfloat with the laygear installed and the appropriate washer selected is given in the Specifications.
	Now refit both thrustwashers to the gearbox casing and place the needle roller bearings in the laygear (photos), Lower the laygear into the gearbox and by judicious manipulation insert the layshaft from the right-hand side of the casing and into the thrustwashers and laygear (photo). Note that when installed the slot in the layshaft must face downwards.
	Now recheck the laygear endfloat which if the correct thrustwashers have been selected should be within the specified limits.
	Refit the mainshaft bearing retainer to the centre web of the gearbox casing, but do not fit any shims at this stage. Lightly tighten the retaining bolts and then measure the clearance between the retainer and the gearbox casing centre web using feeler gauges (photo). Refer to the table below for the correct thickness of shims required.
Measured gap	Fit shims totalling
0.005 to 0.006 in (0.127 to 0.152 mm)	0.005 in (0.127 mm)
0.006 to 0.008 in (0.152 to 0.203 mm)	0.007 in (0.178 mm)
0.008 to 0.010 in (0.203 to 0.254 mm)	0.009 in (0.229 mm)
0.010 to 0.012 in (0.254 to 0.304 mm)	0.011 in (0.279 mm)
0.012 to 0,014 in (0.304 to 0.356 mm)	0.013 in (0.330 mm)
0.014 to 0.015 in (0.356 to 0.381 mm)	0.015 in (0.381 mm)
	Now remove the retainer and place the shims in position followed by the reverse gear shaft and layshaft locking plate. Ensure that the plate engages with the slots in the two shafts and then refit the bearing retainer, bolts and locktabs. Tighten the bolts and bend over the locktabs (photos).
	Fit the final drive pinion to the end of the mainshaft followed by a new iockwasher and the retaining nut (photos).
	Engage two gears simultaneously by moving two of the selector rods in or out.
	Tighten the final drive pinion retaining nut to the specified torque and then bend over the lockwasher (photo).
	Place the first motion shaft gear over the splines of the first motion shaft and then fit a new lockwasher and the retaining nut. Tighten the nut to the specified torque and then bend over the lockwasher (photos).
	Return the selector rods to the neutral position.
	Refit the small roller bearing to the end of the first motion shaft tapping it on using a tube of suitable diameter. Note: On later models the flat face of the roller cage faces the gear. Secure the bearing with the circlip (where fitted) (photo).
	Lightly grease the end of the oil suction pipe and insert it into the hole in the centre of the oil strainer, taking care not to dislodge the rubber sealing ring.
	The top flange on the bracket ties under the lug on the side of the gearbox casing. The oil pipe bracket lies on top of the lug. Position the lockwasher and insert the two bolts through the two holes in the lug into the fixed nuts under the bracket flange. Place a new joint gasket between the pipe blanking plate and the flange on the outside of the casing, and a new gasket between the oil pipe flange and the inside of the casing. Fit a new lockwasher and tighten up the two pairs of bolts. Turn up the tabs on both lockwashers (photos).
	Refit the oil sea] (photo) and partially insert the gear change shaft into the transmission casing. Refit the woodruff key (photo) to the shaft, position the selector lever in the casing and push the gear change shaft through the hole in the lever so the Woodruff key mates with the slot in the selector lever. Push the shaft right into its housing in the transmission case, and line up the cutout in the shaft with the hole for the clamp bolt in the lever. Insert and tighten the clamp bolt (photo) and turn up the tab on the lockwasher.
	Refit the change speed gate (photo); fit a new front cover gasket to the flange on the front of the casing; fit the front cover and insert and tighten up the bolts, nuts and springwashers as appropriate (photos).
	Refit the reverse check plunger and the plunger spring in the hole in the casing, make sure the washer is under the head of the spring plug and tighten the plug securely (photos).
	Insert the speedometer spindle and gear through the front cover, so the spindle engages the slot in the end of the mainshaft. Refit the joint gasket and end plate and tighten down the two securing bolts and lockwashers.
	Refit the speedometer pinion to the front cover and then fit the bush, gasket and pinion housing cover. Secure the cover with the bolt and washer.
	The differential assembly can now be refitted to the gearbox casing as described in Chapter S. Before refitting the engine to the transmission refer to Section 10 regarding removal and refitting of the transfer gears.