Because of the specialised tools and knowledge required to service the automatic transmission, it is recommended that any adjustments or overhaul procedures, other than those described in this section be entrusted to an Authorised Dealer or Transmission Specialist
ADJUSTMENTS	Selector Linkage Transverse Rod . NOTE.- This adjustment applies only to early models fitted with the original forged-type bell-crank lever Later transmissions with the pressed-type bell-crank have a fixed transverse rod bracket and the rod length cannot be adjusted . With the handbrake fully applied, start the engine. Move the selector lever to the R position and check that reverse is engaged. Move the lever slowly backwards towards the N position and check that reverse is disengaged just before or as soon as the lever drops into the N position on the quadrant. Repeat for the 1st gear position. If adjustment is necessary, proceed as described below. At the bell-crank lever on the transmission unit, pull back the rubber boot, extract the split pin and remove the clevis pin from the transverse rod fork. NOTE: Do NOT start the engine while the transverse rod is disconnected. Check that the clevis fork is screwed tightly onto the transverse rod. Also ensure that the rod is pushed fully into the transmission case. Swivel the bell-crank lever clear of the clevis fork and refit the clevis pin. Check the dimension 'A' between the clevis pin centre line and the flat machined face of the transmission case - NOT the oil seal retainer. This should be 25/32 in (20 mm). If not, slacken the locknut and turn the clevis fork until the correct setting is obtained. Retighten the locknut, ensuring that the clevis fork is correctly aligned with the bell-crank lever. Reconnect the fork to the bell-crank lever and secure the clevis pin with a new split pin. Pull the rubber boot back into position over the fork.
Selector Cable	Pull back the rubber sleeve or detach the cover plate from the Bell-crank lever on the transmission unit. On models with the original forged type bell-crank lever extract the split pin and remove the clevis pin securing the selector cable fork to the bell-crank lever - On units fitted with the later pressed-type bell-crank lever, the cable fork is secured to the lever by a nut and bolt instead of a clevis pin . Select 'N' in the transmission by moving the bellcrank lever to pull the transverse rod fully out, the push rod back TWO detent, or ONE detent on early transmissions with seven selector positions instead of six. Move the selector lever to the 'N' position on the quadrant, then check that the hole in the selector cable fork aligns with the bore in the bell-crank lever, and the clevis pin or bolt can easily be inserted. If not, slacken the selector cable adjusting nuts and adjust the position of the cable threaded sleeve relative to its abutment until this condition is obtained. Ensure that the clevis fork is correctly aligned with the bell-crank lever before reconnecting. If required, further adjustment can be obtained by screwing the cable clevis fork along the threaded end of the inner cable. When adjustment is complete, check the linkage setting as described above for the transverse rod. Also check that the start inhibitor switch adjustment is still correct. Check that all adjusting and locknuts are correctly tightened and clevis pins are secured with split pins. Where a rubber boot is fitted, it should be packed with Duckhams Laminol Grease, or equivalent, before refitting. Refit the metal guard over the bell-crank lever, where applicable. The operation of the transmission in each selector position should be finally checked by carrying out a road test.
Start-inhibitor Switch	The start-inhibitor switch is located at the rear of the selector lever housing. Some switches also incorporate the reverse light switch and these have four terminals - two for the ignition/starter circuit and two for the reverse light. Other switches have only two terminals and the reverse light switch in this case is a separate unit which is screwed into the reverse check plunger bore in the front of the transmission casing. When the startinhibitor switch is functioning correctly, the starter will operate only when the selector lever is in the 'N' position. If the starter will not operate in the N position, or if it operates in any other selector positions, then the switch requires adjustment. The reverse light switch (where incorporated) should also operate only when the selector lever is in R. Before attempting to adjust the switch,.check the adjustment of the selector cable and the transverse rod as described above. To adjust the switch, place the selector lever in N and disconnect the electrical connection from the switch. Slacken the switch locknut (arrowed on illustration). Connect a small battery and test lamp across the 2 and 4 terminals (red/white wiring connections) on the switch. Unscrew the switch almost out of the housing, then screw it in again until the test lamp just illuminates and mark the position of the switch. Continue screwing in the switch noting the number of turns required, until the lamp just goes out. Remove the test lamp and battery and unscrew the switch from the housing half the number of turns counted. Tighten the switch locknut and reconnect the electrical leads to their respective terminals. The ignition/ starter circuit leads can be fitted either way round to the 2 and 4 terminals, and the reverse light leads (where fitted) to the I and 3 terminals. Check that the switch functions as described above. If the switch still does not operate correctly, check the switch wiring and connections before renewing the switch.
Idling Speed	Correct idle speed adjustment is essential to avoid stalling in traffic or an excessive thump on engagement of gear from 'N'. A high idling will cause excessive 'creep'. With the engine at normal operating temperature and the selector in the 'N' position, set the idle speed to 750 rpm, or 650 rpm for models prior to 1974, using an accurate electric tachometer. It is normal for the idle speed to drop 50 - 100 rev/min when a gear is selected.
Governor Control Rod (Kick-Down)	Prior to attempting to adjust the governor control rod, check that the throttle cable operates freely without sticking and is correctly adjusted. When the accelerator is fully depressed, it should open the throttle completely. Disconnect the governor control rod and return spring from the carburettor throttle lever. Insert a 1/4 in (6.4 mm) diameter drill or gauge rod through the hole in the intermediate bell-crank lever and locate it in the corresponding hole in the transmission casing . Check that the hole in the control rod fork aligns with the bore in the throttle lever, and that the fulcrum pin is an easy sliding fit through both. If not, slacken the locknut on the lower end of the control rod and turn the rod until the correct length is obtained. Ensure that the rod fork is correctly aligned with the throttle lever after tightening the locknut. Reconnect the control rod and return spring at the carburettor, then remove the checking rod. Check that full throttle opening has not been restricted. This is very important. Road test the car and check the transmission kickdown shift speeds. If the shift speeds are low, the rod should be screwed into the swivel joint housing to effectively shorten the rod. If the speeds are high, the rod should be lengthened slightly. After adjusting, recheck the shift switch on road test.