Removal and Installation
Drain the clutch hydraulic system as described for clutch slave cylinder removal.
Where applicable, disconnect the heater air intake flexible tube from the heater and from the wheel arch.

From inside the car, remove the split pin and withdraw the clevis pin securing the master cylinder push rod to the clutch pedal .
Disconnect the hydraulic pipe union from the master cylinder.
Remove the two nuts and spring washers securing the master cylinder to the bulkhead and lift off the master cylinder.
Installation is a simple reversal of the removal procedure.
When installation is completed, bleed the clutch hydraulic system as detailed later in this section.

Seal Replacement

As with the slave cylinder, a cylinder overhaul kit should be obtained before starting work on the unit.
Remove the filler cap from the fluid reservoir and drain out any remaining fluid. Detach the rubber boot from the end of the cylinder and slide it down the push rod. Extract the retaining circlip from the cylinder bore and remove the internal components, as shown in , from the cylinder.
Remove the secondary cup from the piston.
Clean all the internal components with methylated spirits and inspect carefully. Check the master cylinder bore for any signs of scoring, ridging or corrosion pits. If the bore is damaged in any way, the complete unit must be renewed. Also check that the inlet and outlet ports are free from obstruction.
Lubricate all the internal components with clean hydraulic fluid. Carefully assemble the secondary ;up to the piston.
The flat face of the seal must abut the end flange of the piston.
Fit the spring retainer into the small diameter end of the piston, and insert the spring into the bore, large diameter first. Fit the main cup seal and the cup washer over the spring retainer. The main cup must be fitted carefully, lip edge first. Insert the piston assembly, then refit the push rod assembly and secure with the circlip. Refit the rubber boot on the end of the cylinder.